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Bullfighting in Spain: Las Ventas, the "National Fiesta," and a Divided Country

  • Writer: Carmen
    Carmen
  • 2 days ago
  • 6 min read

Few traditions stir as much passion — and as much rejection — as bullfighting. For some, it's art, history, and an inseparable part of Spanish identity. For others, it's a form of animal cruelty that public money should no longer fund. This article walks through how it all works — from the Las Ventas bullring to season passes and ticket prices — and explains, without taking sides, why the tradition still exists and why it remains so controversial.


Toro with Torero Bullfighter

A bit of history: from popular fiesta to modern spectacle

Bullfighting as we know it today — with a matador on foot, a cuadrilla (team), and the three stages or "tercios" of the fight — took shape in the 18th century, thanks to figures like Pedro Romero and Joaquín Rodríguez "Costillares." Before that, the tradition had much older roots: Iberian and Mediterranean rituals in which bulls were confronted on horseback, a practice reserved for the nobility.

Over time, the fiesta became more democratic, more professionalized, and a mass spectacle throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, with figures like Manolete or Joselito El Gallo elevated to the status of popular heroes. Today it coexists — with growing tension — with a society that openly debates its place in 21st-century Spain.


The Las Ventas Bullring: the "temple" of bullfighting

Opened in 1931, Las Ventas (officially Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas) is, alongside Seville's Maestranza, the most important bullring in the world. Its neo-Mudéjar style, with exposed brick and tilework, also makes it one of Madrid's architectural landmarks, and a successful performance there — "exiting through the Puerta Grande" (Main Gate) — is the ultimate career milestone for any matador.

With capacity for roughly 24,000 spectators, Las Ventas hosts two major cycles each year:

  • Feria de San Isidro, the season's flagship event.

  • Feria de Otoño (Autumn Fair), a shorter cycle held in September–October.

Beyond bullfights and novilladas (fights with young bulls), the venue also hosts other cultural events and tourist visits outside of the season.


How the season works: dates, season passes, and tickets

When is the season?

The 2026 Feria de San Isidro runs from May 8 to June 14, with events held almost daily for nearly five weeks. It is, by far, the most important bullfighting cycle in the world, bringing together the top matadors with the most prestigious bull-breeding ranches. Outside San Isidro, there are individual summer bullfights, and the Feria de Otoño closes out the annual calendar.


Season passes (abonos)

Anyone who wants a guaranteed seat for the whole season — including San Isidro and the Feria de Otoño — can apply for a full-season pass. A few things worth knowing about how this works:

  • The renewal period for existing pass-holders opens in mid-January (in 2026, from January 12 to 20), exclusively at the physical box office.

  • Free spots left over after renewal go on sale at a later date, both at the box office and online.

  • Plaza 1 (the management company) reserves free quotas: 2,100 free passes for retirees (in sun, sun-and-shade, and shade sections) and another 700 free passes for young people up to age 25, in specific stands. Both quotas typically sell out every season.

  • For those without a season pass, individual tickets for San Isidro go on sale a few weeks before the cycle begins (in 2026, online in early March and at the physical box office from March 19).


Approximate prices

Prices vary a lot depending on the bullfight, the lineup of matadors, and the seating location, but as a rough reference for a single ticket:

Seating area

Approximate price

Barrera (front row)

From €120

Contrabarrera (second row)

From €110

Tendido (lower/upper)

€45 – €80

Grada (upper tier)

From €30

Andanada (top tier)

From €25

An interesting detail for anyone unfamiliar with the fiesta: shade seats are the most expensive, since they guarantee comfort and better visibility throughout the event; sun seats are the cheapest, and sun-and-shade seats fall in between, since they only get direct sun during part of the show.


Why does bullfighting still exist?

The arguments in favor of bullfighting's continued existence usually rest on a few pillars:

  • Legally protected cultural heritage. Law 18/2013 declared bullfighting "cultural heritage" throughout Spain, specifically to shield it from potential regional bans; Law 10/2015 went further and listed it as Intangible Cultural Heritage. This legal framework is the ultimate reason no autonomous region can freely ban it today.

  • Economic and labor impact. The bullfighting industry supports a chain that includes bull-breeding ranches, arenas, seasonal employment, and tourism tied to fairs like San Isidro, which draw visitors from across Spain and abroad.

  • Identity and artistic argument. For its defenders, bullfighting is an artistic expression — often compared to dance or music — and an inseparable part of Spanish cultural identity and freedom, not simply a violent spectacle.

  • Active institutional support. Beyond legal protection, there's direct public funding: the Community of Madrid has approved a €7.2 million budget for Bullfighting Affairs in 2026 (a 59.7% increase over 2025), of which €3.7 million goes toward the renovation of Las Ventas. On top of that, regional broadcasters fund bullfighting coverage, and subsidies — both direct and indirect — to pro-bullfighting organizations across different regions have grown notably in recent years.


The political and social controversy

The other side of the debate is just as intense, and has gained ground in recent years:

  • Catalonia already banned bullfighting — and that ban was overturned. In 2010, the Catalan Parliament passed a historic ban on bullfighting, which took effect in 2012. However, Spain's Constitutional Court struck down that ban in 2016, ruling that it encroached on the state's authority over cultural heritage — precisely under Law 18/2013, which had been passed afterward. The Canary Islands, for its part, had already banned bullfighting back in 1991.

  • A recent popular initiative to repeal the protection law. In February 2025, a Popular Legislative Initiative (ILP) was presented to Congress, backed by more than 715,000 signatures, seeking to repeal Law 18/2013 and strip bullfighting of its protected cultural-heritage status. The proposal, under the slogan "Not My Culture," was rejected in the October 2025 vote: Sumar and Podemos voted in favor, PP and VOX against, and the PSOE abstained.

  • International concern over children's exposure. The UN Committee on the Rights of the Child, in its 2026 report on Spain, expressed concern that minors continue to witness the violence and death of animals at bullfighting events, and recommended setting a minimum attendance age of 18 — similar to how access to tobacco or alcohol is regulated. According to data from the Franz Weber Foundation, more than 400 bullfighting events with access for minors were recorded in 2024 alone.

  • The debate over public funding. Much of the current controversy isn't only about animal welfare, but about public funding for an industry whose attendance, according to critics, is at historic lows even as institutional subsidies and budgets keep rising.

  • A shifting European context. The debate isn't exclusive to Spain: in France, a court recently ruled that bullfighting cannot legally be classified as a "sporting event," in a case tied to an activist protest during a bullfight — reopening the debate over the legal status of the practice beyond Spain's borders too.


What if you'd rather understand it without watching a live bullfight?

This is where we come in. We offer a guided tour of the Las Ventas bullring, and you don't need to be a bullfighting fan — or want to become one — to take it.

The tour includes the arena, the stands, the venue's internal areas, and the Bullfighting Museum / Museum of Bullfighters' Costumes (Museo de Trajes de Luces), where you can see embroidered costumes, historic posters, and objects that are part of more than two centuries of bullfighting history up close. At no point do you attend a live bullfight: it's a cultural and historical visit, not a bullfighting spectacle.


Our goal with this tour isn't to convince you that you should like the fiesta, and it's not about "selling" bullfighting either. It's about explaining its cultural, historical, and social weight in Spain — why it exists, what it represents for those who defend it, and why it draws so much criticism from those who oppose it — so you leave the venue understanding the phenomenon, whatever opinion you hold about it. If you're interested in Madrid's history, the social debate surrounding bullfighting, or simply want to see one of the city's most iconic buildings from the inside without sitting through a bullfight, this tour is built for you.


An ongoing debate

Bullfighting in Spain coexists, with growing tension, alongside a society split between those who see it as heritage, art, and identity, and those who see it as institutionalized violence that no longer belongs — and shouldn't be publicly funded. Current legislation protects the activity at the national level, but public opinion, polling, and legislative and international pressure all point to a debate that's far from over.


Whatever your own position, understanding how Las Ventas works — its season passes, its dates, its prices — and knowing the arguments on both sides helps explain why this discussion remains one of the great cultural and political debates in Spain today.



Note: the prices, dates, and budget figures in this article correspond to the 2026 season and publicly available information at the time of writing, and may change; it's worth confirming updated details on the official Las Ventas website (las-ventas.com) before purchasing tickets or season passes.

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