The Vermut Hour in Madrid: A tradition makes a comeback

The Vermouth Hour: The Heart of Madrid's Aperitif

In Madrid, as in other parts of Spain, the vermouth hour ("la hora del vermut") is much more than just a simple break for a drink before lunch. It is a deeply rooted social ritual, a moment to pause, chat with friends and family, and prepare the palate for the impending (and often late) lunch. This tradition, which never entirely disappeared, is currently experiencing a vibrant renaissance in the capital.

What exactly is the vermouth hour?

The vermouth hour is, in essence, the Spanish aperitif. Traditionally, it takes place before lunch, typically between 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM (12:00 and 14:00), especially on Saturday or Sunday. It's the "golden hour" before the comida (lunch), which in Spain rarely begins before 2:30 PM (14:30). It's an act of socializing. People get together, have a vermouth, and share small tapas or pinchos, creating a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere, perfect for getting into the weekend spirit.

Vermouth: A drink with character

Vermouth is a fortified wine macerated with a wide variety of aromatic herbs and spices. While vermut blanco (white vermouth, often drier) exists, the vermut rojo (red vermouth, sweeter, with notes of caramel and spices) is the undisputed star in Madrid.

The popular "vermut de grifo" (vermouth on tap) is a must-try. It is often locally made and served in a small glass, typically "con hielo y una rodaja de naranja" (with ice and an orange slice), and sometimes with an olive. Many Madrilenians also order it "con sifón" (with siphon), adding a splash of soda water (from a classic siphon bottle) to make it lighter.

Where to enjoy the vermouth hour in Madrid?

Almost every barrio (neighborhood) has its key spots, especially La Latina, Malasaña, and the Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter). Many bars and taverns have revived this tradition or have maintained it for generations.

• Traditional Taverns (Tabernas): This is where the tradition is lived. They often offer their own "vermut de la casa" (house vermouth) on tap, accompanied by simple but perfect tapas.

  • Casa Alberto: Located in the heart of the Barrio de las Letras, this 1827 tavern is a historical gem. The vermouth comes directly from an antique tap, and the atmosphere is authentically Madrilenian.

  • Bodega de la Ardosa: In Malasaña, this is an institution, famous for its traditional vermouth and its excellent tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette).

  • Casa Camacho: Also in Malasaña, a cult spot known for its 'Yayos' – a potent mix of vermouth, gin, and soda water.

• Specialized Bars (Vermuterías): In response to this renaissance, modern bars have emerged dedicated exclusively to vermouth, offering a huge selection of brands from all over Spain (like Reus, the traditional center of vermouth production).

• Gastronomic Markets: Modern markets have become centers for social eating and drinking. At the Mercado de San Miguel (very touristy, but with a large selection, for example at "La Hora del Vermut") or in the more authentic Mercado de Antón Martín, you can enjoy vermouth and fresh tapas at various stalls.

What to order with vermouth? The perfect companions

The accompaniments for vermouth are often salty, sour, or pickled (encurtidos), to perfectly balance the drink's sweet-and-bitter character. The selection is varied:

• Olives: In all their varieties, often aliñadas (specially seasoned).

• Patatas fritas: Potato chips, often homemade or from a bag, but almost always drizzled with salsa de aperitivo (a spicy red sauce) or pimentón (paprika).

• Boquerones en vinagre: White anchovies marinated in vinegar, garlic, and parsley.

• Gildas: The classic skewer, named after Rita Hayworth – a spicy combination of an olive, a pickled piparra pepper, and an anchovy.

• Mejillones en escabeche: Mussels in a tangy paprika marinade (escabeche), often served directly from high-quality tins.

• Berberechos: Cockles, usually also from a tin, served with lemon and a dash of pepper.

• Cheeses and Cured Meats: A small plate of Manchego cheese or jamón (cured ham) always fits.

Tips for enjoying the vermouth hour like a local

1. Go with friends or family. Vermouth is a social drink.

2. Try different types: Test the bar's "vermut de grifo" and perhaps compare it with a branded vermouth from a bottle.

3. Eat something! The vermouth is meant to whet the appetite, not fill you up. The tapas are an essential part of the ritual.

4. Take your time. It's not about drinking quickly, but about the conversation and relaxing before lunch.

The vermouth hour is more than a trend; it's a fundamental part of the Madrilenian way of life. It's a delicious tradition that invites you to leave the hustle and bustle of the week behind and simply enjoy good company and local flavors.

Are you up for a vermouth? Cheers!